10/24 - Saturday - Mt. Jiu Hua
Up a little before 0600, after our first good night's sleep since arrival. We went to the 5th deck observation salon for early coffee and pastries, then back to the cabin and dressed a bit before going to breakfast. As we would expect from Viking, the breakfast buffet was quite good. Ate well, and will do so throughout. After breakfast, I began this journal. Then joined Mary Margaret and some acquaintances (Beverly and Polly) on the 6th deck for some conversation and watching of the abundant river traffic. Just before 0900, went to 5th deck observation lounge for information / indoctrination, where this catch-up journal writing is taking place. The afternoon also featured a lecture on Buddhism by a scholar from Mt. Jiu Hua; actually more interesting than I anticipated. Now awaiting lunch in about a half-hour.
Lunch was up to the usual Viking standard- a salad bar really over the top, and entrees that could be served for dinner. And, of course, the usual problem with serving 280 people in one seating where buffet lines are concerned....a traffic jam.
We departed on schedule for the Buddhist mountain at Jiu Hua and its multitude of temples. A really rough ride to the mountains themselves, due to extensive road building, and then a series (supposedly "99") of turns and switchbacks to get up to the mountain, along a road altogether too narrow. It's impossible not to regard bus drivers here as an altogether more skilled breed than those in the U.S., given what they have to make the buses do. The hair-raising and yet strangely functional nature of Chinese driving becomes more apparent every day.
We visited two temples at Mt. Jiu Hua, and were given the opportunity (at RMB 100 per person, which we declined) of taking a funicular railway up to the peak, where still more temples exist. The temples contained both familiar and unfamiliar Buddhist imagery- I suppose some of the dragons and elephants might be more specifically Chinese than just Buddhist, but all are generally incorporated into the religion. After some free time, we made the descent and returned to the ship. I am already trying very hard to suppress my distaste for long bus rides.
Returned to the VCS at 1730, rested until Captain's reception at 1900. This was largely a formality with refreshments, except for the briefing for the next day- literally "chinatown,' a center of porcelain manufacturing. The prospect of a two hour bus ride each way is daunting.
Went to dinner at 1930, one of two Chinese dinners we will have aboard. The menu was uniformly excellent in all respects. There were several dishes on the spicy side, which is guaranteed to provoke comment and exclamation from some people, but I found it uniformly tasty and well done.
Back to the cabin after dinner, decided to go forward and read. We did little for a half-hour but watch the river and doze, and so returned to the cabin and bed.
10/25 - Sunday - Playing hooky from ceramics tour / walking ashore in Jingdezhen
Up at 0530 and showered, went to the 5th deck lounge for coffee and pastries. We made an executive decision at this time not to go on the tour of the ceramics factory. A two-hour bus ride each way was very intimidating, and we are told that this is a good spot to go walking ashore i Jingdezhen, another of those cities that our escort tosses off as "-a small city, only 2 or 3 million." We walked into the large street fronting the dock area, and walked about 1/2 mile to a large shopping complex, consisting of smaller shops, then leading into a two-story combination supermarket - dry goods store. Walked around, bought some beer, a bottle of Chinese "wine" (actually, a sorghum-based distilled clear beverage of about 78 proof), & a map of the People's Republic. Cost for these items was nearly 28 Yuan, or about $4. A very large and tall Westerner with beard is a universal object of fascination, as I can attest. I thought several girls running the checkouts were going to take me home for a lawn ornament.
Returned to the boat for lunch, then spent the afternoon on the observation deck talking with Beverly, and had a few beers. Beverly left for a massage appointment at 5, and was replaced by another gentleman with a colorful past.
At 1830 we attended a briefing on Wuhan, and had dinner at 1900. Went to a show of Chinese traditional costume and dancing at 2115 performed by the crew in fine style, then to bed.
10/26 - Monday - Wuhan / Hubei Province Museum
Up at 0600, and to early coffee and watch the arrival at Wuhan, capital of Hubei province. Had breakfast at 0700, and returned to the cabin to prepare for shore excursion. Took bus to Hubei Provincial Museum to see an archæological display of bells and other finds from 2500 year old tomb. We were told that even though Monday was "institutional buildings closed day," -rather like in Europe- that the museum would be opened especially for the Viking tour. The museum was great, also included a performance hall, where we were treated to a show replicating a musical performance of that earlier time. We then took a forty minute tour of the artifacts secured from the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng, a minor kingdom of the Warring States period 8th - 3rd CBC. This was all absolutely first-rate.
Returned to the boat for lunch, and I for a nap. Mary Margaret spent time with Beverly, then went for a foot massage at 1500. I attempted to use the ship's internet facilities, with no result. Secured ice and cooled some beer.
Mary & I attended the lecture on the Yangtze River at 1600; very good lecture. The implications of the water diversion projects in China over the next 50 years are staggering. The potential change for the country is vast, but also, I think, not certain. There exists immense potential for harm as well as good in it.
A Mandarin lesson at 1700. I attended, while Mary returned to the cabin for a nap. We skipped the briefing for tomorrow, and will instead attend the reception at 1830 for the "Viking Explorer Society." Got up to the reception, and drank quite a quantity of complimentary wine....not bad, considering what Viking normally charges for a glass. Dinner at 1900....nice menu, got to sit at a different table and talk to a completely new group of people. Close to 2100 by the time we returned to our cabin, so we turned in.
10/27 - Tuesday - Yueyang tower
Up at 0600, went to observation deck for early coffee and pastries, watch the landscape lighten up and see the new horizon of Yueyang, the port of Hunan province. Bargeloads of logs being brought in made it no surprise when we learned there is a large paper mill here. The barge traffic on the river makes everything look efficient......then guys start unloading the logs from the barges on their backs.....and the 21st century meets feudal China.
Down to breakfast at 0700, ate with the usual folks....some new types of smoked fish for breakfast, was told one was mackerel. Went to cabin before going to the bus for excursion to Yueyang pagoda.
Happily, bus ride was only 15 minutes along shore of Dongting Lake to reach the rather large park where the tower is situated. Had a good tour guide who is also the redundant tour director of the Viking Century Sky, taken out of service with Viking last year due to economic slump. Interesting tower tour and tea-drinking. Tea was accompanied by a girl playing a stringed instrument; all very nice....although the highly-touted local "silver needle" tea didn't do anything for either of us. Returned to boat by 1115. Lunch at 1200, very good. Afternoon to be structured by bridge tour for me at 1440, a Chinese culture lecture by Larry at 1600, and a foot massage at 1700.
The Chinese culture lecture, like all of tour director Larry's presentations, was very good. My foot massage was very relaxing, and left me with truly "happy feet." Dinner at 1900 was very good, as usual, and once again we chose a table with different folks. Also, Francis and Richard (escorts) sat with us for dinner. Back to cabin and reading and sleep.
....to be continued in Part III
....return to Part I
....go to Part IV
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