Monday 11/2 - Qongjing / Xi'an
Awoke to the boat sliding into the main part of Qongjing; immense industrial works and shipping facilities everywhere, in China's largest city....we were given a figure of 31 million. Came in to dock near center of town, marked by a pair of huge golden spires, which our escort told us is in part the local Sheraton. We went to breakfast, passed out gratuities to some staff, paid off the boat, and debarked without incident....except for the usual swarming of peddlers as we hit dry land. I think one of our fellow passengers managed to corner the Qongjing kite market. Thus ended the cruise portion of our tour. As usual, Viking does most things very well indeed, and this time was no exception.
An extremely fluent and entertaining local guide, David, made the bus ride to the Qongjing Zoo go swiftly, through the usual hellacious traffic. The zoo tour was more than I expected. We were probably there an hour, and the zoo itself was impressive, being incorporated with a large park, as usual with many people performing Tai Chi. The pandas....were pandas. Seems strange to watch what is to us North Americans a carnivore perform exactly as an herbivore does (and must), which is to eat without pause. Thus is the curse of vegetarianism, in this rather melancholy example of an evolutionary dead end. The zoo also has a number of the "lesser panda," which is a misleading name, because it has a broader diet, is not endangered, and resembles much more its relative, our own Procyon lotor, the thieving bandit of so many bird feeders and dog dishes here in the States.
We departed the zoo and made the drive to the Qongjing airport, a smaller facility than Shanghai Pudong, but, as usual, "an hour away." From what I had read about internal Chinese air travel, I had a few misgivings, none of which materialized. The plane, a Hainan Airways Boeing 737, was clean, efficient, departed on time, had significantly more legroom than any 737 I've ever ridden in the U.S. (which makes little sense to me, given the smaller stature of most Chinese), and further proved that Chinese food is probably better adapted to serve on airplanes than our cuisine. After an hour's flight, we landed in Xi'an, the ancient capital of China, home to the Qin, Han, and Tang dynasties, and with an intact 10 mile city wall which we never even got to look at....probably my only regret thus far.
We had lunch at the airport, then drove into town and checked into another very impressive 5-star hotel, the Shangri-La, and had an hour and a half before departing to dinner and a Tang Dynasty Show at a local establishment. Dinner was very well done, and the Tang Dynasty show was both colorful and spectacular....although, inevitably, without sufficient cultural referents to completely understand either the music or performance. Then, after a very full and busy day, off to the hotel and bed.
Tuesday - 11/3 - Xi'an / Beijing
Awoke and had coffee in the hotel room. Checked e-mail and went down to the invariably huge, varied, and delicious breakfast buffet we've become used to here. We left our suitcases outside and checked out again, because we'd be flying to Beijing before the day was out.
Then it was off to a spot about 25 km away to where a farmer named Mr. Yang had been digging a well with some neighbors in 1974 and brought up a terra cotta arm. He notified authorities, and by now we have an 8th Wonder of the World.....at least that's what we were told it is.
We spent a beautiful crisp Fall morning touring the various buildings at the site, and everything, including the Warriors, was very impressive. Mr. Yang was even there to personally sign our book, since in retirement he is now employed by the gift shop in this capacity.
We drove back into Xi'an for lunch on the third floor of the dinner theater of the night before, then (an hour) to the airport for the flight on Eastern China Airlines to Beijing. This proved to be the single glitch in our internal air travel in China, since our plane was delayed 1.5 hours. Eventually took off, in a new-seeming Airbus 320 that buzzed like a cheap toy on takeoff and landing. I am reminded of what an acquaintance, a 767 pilot for American, said to me recently- "Boeing has forgotten more about making airplanes than Airbus will ever know."
It was nine-ish by the time we arrived at the Raffles Beijing, which was to be our final -and most impressive- hotel during our tour. We had a late but delicious buffet dinner there before retiring for the night.
Wednesday - 11/4 - Beijing
Up at 0600 for what we knew would be the first of two killer touring days in Beijing. The Raffles has a spectacular breakfast buffet...which by now we almost expected. After breakfast, we boarded the bus for an hour and a half drive to the Great Wall. The tour of the Wall is one of those things that is everything expected and more, no matter how many times it's seen on TV. As on several other occasions, there was plenty of time to cool our heels in someplace with rather high-priced merchandise, in this case the large gift shop / coffee shop.
We drove back from the Wall and found ourselves at lunch after walking through a jade factory, with a brief bash on jade and its manufacture, followed by an enormous showroom featuring jade pieces in all sizes, colors, shapes, and types of jade. We finally ended up in a lunchroom that featured -apart from plentiful and tasty food- the only unlimited complimentary drinks of the tour, including beer and 112 proof rice wine. We speculated that this might have been directed at loosening our pocketbooks when we returned through the jade showroom (and were given about an hour until bus time). As it happened, we had already decided to make a piece of jade our main souvenir of the trip, and were able to find a very nice piece.
We then rode to the Sacred Way of the Ming emperors, the tumuli of these rulers dotting the surrounding landscape. It was a nice walk of about 3/4 km, with much statuary and five-star "happy rooms." This would have been an appropriate way to end the day, but we were then taken to the Olympic facility to view the "Bird's Nest" stadium, etc. Apart from more nice rest rooms, this stop should be omitted as it makes the touring day too long. As it was, all it brought about was a small revolt, resulting in only 11 people in our group of 30 attending dinner that evening, as it was going to be yet another bus ride / return to the hotel.
For dinner, we went out with some nice folks we met on the trip to an Outback Steak House right in the complex of buildings that included the Raffles. Perhaps it was time for a change; we ate and returned to our rooms about 2000 and relaxed before bed, hoping for a good night's rest before one last marathon day of touring.
Thursday - 11/5 - Beijing
Arose about 0600, made coffee and checked e-mail, then went down to the Raffles' super buffet breakfast.
Afterward a very brief bus ride down Chang'an Avenue brought us to the South end of Tienanmen square (quian men = front gate) amidst a horde of vendors. Crossing the street and going through security filtered out quite a few of the vendors, although some were more or less surreptitiously plying their wares in the square itself. The Chinese had formed a line that we were told averaged three hours to enter the Mao-soleum that is the only building in the square, to view the remains. The only other structure besides a flagpole is a monument to the nation's heroes. A long walk, but I suppose now we can all say we've walked across the world's largest square.
We crossed Chang'an Avenue via an underpass, and found ourselves at the Tiananmen gate of the Forbidden City. Extensive and massive describe the Forbidden City, with red the predominant color. The secondary color struck me as yellow, present in the decorative tile work. Given all the massive governmental buildings, the residential area of the Emperor and his family struck me as strangely anticlimactic.
The Imperial Garden is directly connected to the Forbidden City, and we moved through it to the "back exit" at the North end of the complex, and then walked to our bus, and then proceeded to lunch on the third floor of a five-star hotel at an excellent buffet. The hotel was also hosting some sort of 60th anniversary soiree for the PLA Air Force. Lots of uniforms with stars on the epaulettes, of an Air Force that -I reflect- has never fought a war.
After lunch, we drove to the Summer Palace, about 20 km West of Beijing, the last long walk of our tour. It was quite pleasant, and must have been more so when the Emperor and his entourage had it to themselves. As it was, there were plenty of people, and I can only imagine what it must be like during the height of the tourist season.
We drove back to the hotel, and had about an hour before departing for our farewell dinner and the Peking Opera. On the way to dinner, I asked our escort about the continuation of the Romanized spelling "Peking" for the duck and the opera, and as I expected, they have become fixed terms, and so do not follow the current pinyin rendition of "Beijing."
The Peking Duck dinner was quite good, although apart from the duck, the best courses were the two soups that were served...the rest of the dishes were so-so, compared to a lot of the Chinese food we've had.
The Peking Opera was performed in a theater in the same building. The performance itself reminded me in many ways of the Tang Dynasty show in Xi'an, while being altogether different in tone and content. This performance I would describe as a combination of slapstick, pantomime and acrobatics in a mythological context. Extremely entertaining, while the content was, of course, entirely inaccessible to me as a Westerner.
We then returned to the Raffles Hotel and bed.
Friday 11/6 - Beijing / Chicago
Up at 0600 for one last fling at the Raffles' extraordinary breakfast buffet. We would have the day to ourselves until 1330, apart from having our bags in the hall by 1200, then it would be off to the airport.
We met with John & Carol for breakfast and planned a foray to the Xiushui Silk Market. About 0930 we got a cab, and after a bewildering and circuitous 20 minute ride costing about $3, (get used to these in Chinese cities) ended up at the market. The Silk Market was amazing, cacaphonous, uproarious, a continuous verbal assault from vendors of every kind of merchandise, packed into >6 floors. When a suitable booth had been located, one shook off the three or four salesgirls from other booths who were hanging on, then the bargaining started. Fun, fun, fun. We bargained hard, and came away with two pairs of gloves from one vendor and two scarves from another. Spent some money, and had a hugely entertaining time. It's sort of like a completely immersive interactive video game. We were in there less than an hour and a half, and it felt like getting a graduate degree in shopping mania. After a much shorter cab ride back to the hotel (once again, given the way traffic works, this is normal), we set our bags in the hall and began to put things in order for our departure.
We settled our account at the Raffles and left on time at 1330, moving through very heavy traffic to the Beijing airport. Arriving about 20 minutes late, we still had plenty of time to get checked in and move through customs, immigration, and security. The small security girl was particularly entertaining as she attempted to wand a six and a half foot round-eye standing on a 6" pedestal. I'd give money for a video of that one.
While waiting, I spend the last of our RMB on chocolate at the duty-free, and we chatted with people we had met on our trip, and in all likelihood would never see again. Our plane boarded on schedule, accompanied by the usual early queuing up and stressed behavior coming from people.... who already know they've got a seat. We had very good seats, and can recommend United's Economy Plus wholeheartedly. The plane landed early at Chicago's O'Hare, and then taxied interminably until we finally deplaned at the far end of Terminal 5.
There's a new Customs Hall since our last arrival in Terminal 5, and.....it's worse. Our tax dollars at work again. We moved smoothly through baggage and turning over the Customs form, then moved to the curb outside and were picked up by the hotel shuttle in about 20 minutes. Arriving at the hotel, we went immediately to our car, loaded it, and departed Chicago. After stopping in Dwight for some dinner, we arrived home about 2100, to find everything in one piece, and large areas of the house carpeted by the Fall invasion of Asian ladybugs. I reflected that the previous 17 days in Asia had been much more fun, ran the vacuum through the worst of it and went to bed.
This concludes our China travels. This journal has been edited, largely for removal of personal references that may be uncalled-for....but probably not. I will attempt to insert suitable referential links as time allows- JA
....go to Part I
....go to Part II
....go to Part III
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Monday, November 16, 2009
Why? ....and they can't tell you
Apparently the Gitmo detainees are to be moved to the United States. The legal system has groaned, clattered & squealed, and shat a decision, or else it's just another decision by the Executive for strictly political motives. And I no longer care which, because I don't think it matters.
It is said they are to be housed in our state of IL, apparently, in a new-looking but evidently empty state max security prison on the Mississippi River. Now the fact that these people should have been simply deported to their home countries, tried and a disposition made, or simply had a concrete block chained to their ankles and pitched into the sea can be ignored. Mr. Obama's home state will get several hundred more jobs. NOW the recession is over, for sure.
Tools in suits like Dick Durbin can point with pride to a few hundred jobs for their constituents, while, in the end, it is inevitable (now that these people are on U.S. soil and under the umbrella of the U.S. Judiciary) that this imbroglio will now grind on for decades, and cost the U.S. taxpayer hundreds of millions of dollars...... and be another bonanza for hundreds of trial lawyers.
This is an indefensible decision.
It is said they are to be housed in our state of IL, apparently, in a new-looking but evidently empty state max security prison on the Mississippi River. Now the fact that these people should have been simply deported to their home countries, tried and a disposition made, or simply had a concrete block chained to their ankles and pitched into the sea can be ignored. Mr. Obama's home state will get several hundred more jobs. NOW the recession is over, for sure.
Tools in suits like Dick Durbin can point with pride to a few hundred jobs for their constituents, while, in the end, it is inevitable (now that these people are on U.S. soil and under the umbrella of the U.S. Judiciary) that this imbroglio will now grind on for decades, and cost the U.S. taxpayer hundreds of millions of dollars...... and be another bonanza for hundreds of trial lawyers.
This is an indefensible decision.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
A China Journal / Part III / Jingzhou to Fengdu
10/28 - Wednesday - Viking Elementary School at Jingzhou
Up at 0550, and to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. We were already moored outboard of a floating restaurant in Jingzhou, a small city in Hubei province, the location of the VRC school we will visit. Had breakfast at 0700, and managed to nip up to the sun deck and swipe some wi-fi for a little e-mail update and IM with son.
Left the boat at 0845, crossing the restaurant and climbing about 50 steps to the bus. About 1/2 hour to the Viking school, through traffic not too bad as yet, into an outlying district. Arrived at the school to a thunderous reception from the student drum and bugle corps. Children were joyful and excited to see us (and to be out of class, no doubt), and we went to the athletic field where they had a stage performance for us, featuring a number of dances. We then went to our group's classroom, where the students recited poetry and sang. We then did some old ditties we had briefly rehearsed on the bus - "Row, row, row your boat," "Old MacDonald," "Hokey-Pokey," and "You Are My Sunshine." We had a great time, and the kids thought it was wonderful. We then boarded the bus for the trip back to the VCS, stopping on the way to take pix of water buffalo (shui3niu2). Traffic was much heavier going back to the boat, such that we arrived at the last minute at 1130. This was particularly important today, as we have a lock appointment for the first of the Yangtze locks.
Lunch at 1200; afternoon activities will include a talk on the Three Gorges Dam by Larry, another Chinese lesson by river guide Justin, and a Mah Jong lesson by Francis at 1700.
Lecture on Three Gorges Dam at 1400. Don't know how much we'll learn that we don't already know (a dam is a dam....etc.). More interested in being out on deck at the passage of the locks for some pix.
Three Gorges Dam presentation was good. Went to Sun Deck at 1700 for Mah Jong lesson. Got a slow start, but everyone got into it and learned the ropes; one couple (not us!) won consistently. Went to briefing on tomorrow's passage of the dam, and then back up to the sun deck for more Mah Jong, until dinner.
Had our second (and presumably last) Chinese dinner at 1900. Good, but not as good as the first one.
Up to cabin at 2030......discussing whether or not to stay up until 2200 for a lock passage......
Stayed up until we entered the lock and moored to a tower. Went to bed around 2200.
10/29 - Thursday / Three Gorges Dam Day
Up at 0600; didn't sleep much from 0400. Went up to observation lounge for coffee and pastries. Saw what was apparently sister ship, former VC Sky, moored alongside. We discussed next day's options, which will be either a visit to a "Reclamation Town," one of the new towns built to accommodate those displaced by the dam, or else a tour of Snow Jade Cave. Neither of us has any special interest in visiting a new town, and the cave has 900 steps. This seems a poor choice, especially since the boat cruise will be winding down and we will be facing the more arduous land portion ending our tour.
Breakfast at 0700. It is about this portion of any tour that one's companions become......trying. Thankfully the breakfast is worth enduring that particular annoyance.
Left for Three Gorges Dam tour at 0900. Very good (roomy) bus this time, a Daewoo. The tour guide, Lily II, was also very good, with excellent English. We went through a security screening that resembled an airport, but I think was quite a bit more cursory than that. Some of the regulations were a parody of TSA regulations..no pocketknives, no nail clippers. Armies of American tourists attacking the Three Gorges Dam with nail clippers.....yep, that'll do it.
View from the 185 meter level (water is at 171 m, 4 m below Winter max of 175) was spectacular, despite the partial fog. We are told that this will be a permanent condition here in Spring and Fall, due to the mass of water in the new reservoir. We then drove up to a higher observation area. There was a model room, too full of people and too acoustically live, with a guide screaming into a microphone. We took pix & left in a hurry. Walked around, looking at the various views from the park, but did NOT climb to the observation tower. Lots of steps, not large enough, too many people....which is turning out to be a recurring theme in China. Reassembled at bus at 1040 and drove back to VCS. Attempted to swipe wireless from sun deck, but no networks whatever. Lunch at 1200.
Some wait departing from our mooring, but captain is awaiting word from the dam as to when to proceed to the locks. We moved into our lock just about on schedule, despite the constant complaining of one gentleman that they obviously didn't know how to operate ship locks (at least from his perspective). In an accent strictly New York Lower East Side (where everyone knows how to operate ship locks), he stated that waiting for the lock gates to open was like waiting for paint to dry; from my perspective, just like waiting for him to shut up!
Took some pix of the first of the 5 locks, then figured that the other 4 would be about the same. Went to sun deck and kibitzed for a bit at the Mah Jong game among Mary, Beverly, Polly, and Carol, I then went to the observation lounge to the Larry Lecture on the Chinese dynasties- good coverage from the Spring/Autumn - Warring States period to 1912. Very good presentation, which we have come to expect from Larry. After presentation, Mary & I returned to our cabin for some beer, then reading before dinner.
Dinner at 1900, I had the veal loin, which was very good, but the appetizer tonight was probably my favorite of the whole cruise so far- a skewer of chicken, pineapple, pepper, onion, with a great garnish of cilantro. The asparagus soup was quite good as well. We passed the final lock and emerged into the reservoir (Xiling Gorge) while still at dinner.
Tonight's entertainment was Elvis Night, so of course we went to our cabin, read, and went to bed. Some things do not acquire greater charm because they're done 7,000 miles from their cultural milieu.
10/30 - Friday - Three Lesser Gorges Excursion
Up at 0545, then up to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. This morning was a little different, because we are cruising the Xiling / Wu gorges, and there was narration. Went outside and took some pix with Beverly, Polly, John & Carol. Absolutely unique scenery.....what is below is flooded, but whatever people lived there before lived in a virtually vertical world.
Went down to breakfast about 0800, ate with Polly and some people from Scotland. I had some noodles with breakfast this morning, and if the fried chiles presented as a condiment didn't wake you up, no amount of coffee would. We are now awaiting docking for our transfer to a smaller craft and the tour of one of the lesser gorges.
Transferred to a smaller boat, about half the passengers of the VCS in each of two boats, then up into the Three lesser gorges, which are serial. Most spectacular scenery of the trip so far, took over 100 photos. Two large highway bridges being built at the outset, and cell phone towers linking deep into the gorges, as far as we went, at least. Despite the steep terrain, plantings are everywhere: sweet potatoes, tobacco, wheat, sesame, etc. Much trapping of fish on the river. Saw rhesus monkeys and hanging coffins, as well as fanciful rock formations and caves. Whole tour was about 3.5 hours, back to VCS around 1230, lunch at 1300, underway during lunch.
Proceeded down the main reservoir / gorges all afternoon, with Justin giving description of scenery at the main scenic junction "Huge Three Pools." Attended a third of Larry's fifth lecture on China Today, then left. Not his fault. Given this more politically charged topic, he became extremely circumlocutory, indicating he was using "prepared" notes, ones I suspect not from him. Also, there were two annoying persons who promptly set up behind me and started playing cribbage. So it was either pitch them into the river, or leave. I left.
I returned to the cabin and took a shower, then opened some beers. I can drink the best Chinese brew (that I have had), Tsingtao, without complaint. They have done an excellent job of aping the straw-colored, fizzy, slightly astringent lager that the United States produces so abundantly. In fact, I'd say it's as good as any I've had, but that's an low index to be using.
Alexey is going to be presenting the DVD of the cruise at 1810, but I'm not much interested- I've been on it. Dinner will be at 1900, and then some sort of "International Music" entertainment. I suspect it'll be reading and bed after dinner, though, which is just fine with me. I want some easy cruising and relaxation before we have to hit the road for Xi'an and Beijing in two days. The end of this tour will be very, very full.
Saturday 10/31 - Shibaozhai
Up at 0555, to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. When it became light, it was obvious that it was raining. By breakfast at 0700, the rain was pretty steady. We decided to go on our tour, which consisted of a 20 minute walk through the town....mostly past vendors who had erected awnings out over the street, and shopkeepers who had done the same thing, peddling the usual bric-a-brac. Everything from "antique" mah jong sets to kitsch such as Red Guard caps. After walking to the embarkation point to the boat to the pagoda, we decided to give that part a miss, and walked back to the boat with Polly. We were pretty good & wet at the extremities by the time we returned, although the "one size fits all" (all Chinese, anyway) raincoats passed out by the VCS worked pretty well on the head and core of the body.
We immediately changed clothes and began a drying-out regimen, the small hair dryer in the room coming in particularly handy when used on my orthotics and shoes. Had some of the room tea, didn't particularly care for the taste. Scanned for some free computer networks in Shibao, none to be found.
Departed Shibao about noon for Fengdu, which we reached around 1700. In between did some reading, conversing, photography. At 1530 was a dumpling demo by the boat's sous chef. They were good, and don't look that complicated. I will make these after we return home. Didn't stay for the napkin folding demo, which I later regretted, when I learned it was performed by the charming Smile, one of our waitresses in the dining room.
Had some beers; dinner will be at 1900, as usual.
Sunday 11/1 - Fengdu
Up at 0555, to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries, watched the lights go out and the day emerge in Fengdu. Breakfast at 0700. As neither tour appeals to us today, we're going to stay on the boat, maybe venture ashore for some photos, and pack in preparation for disembarkation tomorrow.
Went back to room after breakfast, gathered reading matter & laptop, and up to sun deck to read, catch up journal, and reflect on our experiences.
Went off the boat on our own into Fengdu before 1000, walked around the city center for a little over an hour, and returned to the ship. Got stared at a lot, but the people were perfectly friendly. Interesting walk.
Tours returned a little after 1100, went to lunch at 1200, and underway soon after for Qongjing. Actually managed to crank out a few e-mails on the boat's computers, an unusual feat.
Went up to the disembarkation briefing at 1330. Briefing was at 1400....would have been straightforward except for the sorts of people who never get the word (i.e., they don't listen...as an ex-teacher, there's one in every class) and can never get their ducks in a row. Francis then took us aside for a group briefing. Pretty simple- we're outta here by 0800, to the Chongquing Zoo for the pandarama, then the plane. We'll take off at 1055, so we should be in Xi'an by 1100. Lunch there, then go check in to hotel. Dinner & Tang dynasty show at unspecified time.
We're pretty much packed...all we have to do is take care of the tips & a few odds and ends tonight, then have our bags outside our door before 0600.
I suspect there'll be little else but dinner & bed this evening.
....back to Part I
....back to Part II
....to Part IV
Up at 0550, and to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. We were already moored outboard of a floating restaurant in Jingzhou, a small city in Hubei province, the location of the VRC school we will visit. Had breakfast at 0700, and managed to nip up to the sun deck and swipe some wi-fi for a little e-mail update and IM with son.
Left the boat at 0845, crossing the restaurant and climbing about 50 steps to the bus. About 1/2 hour to the Viking school, through traffic not too bad as yet, into an outlying district. Arrived at the school to a thunderous reception from the student drum and bugle corps. Children were joyful and excited to see us (and to be out of class, no doubt), and we went to the athletic field where they had a stage performance for us, featuring a number of dances. We then went to our group's classroom, where the students recited poetry and sang. We then did some old ditties we had briefly rehearsed on the bus - "Row, row, row your boat," "Old MacDonald," "Hokey-Pokey," and "You Are My Sunshine." We had a great time, and the kids thought it was wonderful. We then boarded the bus for the trip back to the VCS, stopping on the way to take pix of water buffalo (shui3niu2). Traffic was much heavier going back to the boat, such that we arrived at the last minute at 1130. This was particularly important today, as we have a lock appointment for the first of the Yangtze locks.
Lunch at 1200; afternoon activities will include a talk on the Three Gorges Dam by Larry, another Chinese lesson by river guide Justin, and a Mah Jong lesson by Francis at 1700.
Lecture on Three Gorges Dam at 1400. Don't know how much we'll learn that we don't already know (a dam is a dam....etc.). More interested in being out on deck at the passage of the locks for some pix.
Three Gorges Dam presentation was good. Went to Sun Deck at 1700 for Mah Jong lesson. Got a slow start, but everyone got into it and learned the ropes; one couple (not us!) won consistently. Went to briefing on tomorrow's passage of the dam, and then back up to the sun deck for more Mah Jong, until dinner.
Had our second (and presumably last) Chinese dinner at 1900. Good, but not as good as the first one.
Up to cabin at 2030......discussing whether or not to stay up until 2200 for a lock passage......
Stayed up until we entered the lock and moored to a tower. Went to bed around 2200.
10/29 - Thursday / Three Gorges Dam Day
Up at 0600; didn't sleep much from 0400. Went up to observation lounge for coffee and pastries. Saw what was apparently sister ship, former VC Sky, moored alongside. We discussed next day's options, which will be either a visit to a "Reclamation Town," one of the new towns built to accommodate those displaced by the dam, or else a tour of Snow Jade Cave. Neither of us has any special interest in visiting a new town, and the cave has 900 steps. This seems a poor choice, especially since the boat cruise will be winding down and we will be facing the more arduous land portion ending our tour.
Breakfast at 0700. It is about this portion of any tour that one's companions become......trying. Thankfully the breakfast is worth enduring that particular annoyance.
Left for Three Gorges Dam tour at 0900. Very good (roomy) bus this time, a Daewoo. The tour guide, Lily II, was also very good, with excellent English. We went through a security screening that resembled an airport, but I think was quite a bit more cursory than that. Some of the regulations were a parody of TSA regulations..no pocketknives, no nail clippers. Armies of American tourists attacking the Three Gorges Dam with nail clippers.....yep, that'll do it.
View from the 185 meter level (water is at 171 m, 4 m below Winter max of 175) was spectacular, despite the partial fog. We are told that this will be a permanent condition here in Spring and Fall, due to the mass of water in the new reservoir. We then drove up to a higher observation area. There was a model room, too full of people and too acoustically live, with a guide screaming into a microphone. We took pix & left in a hurry. Walked around, looking at the various views from the park, but did NOT climb to the observation tower. Lots of steps, not large enough, too many people....which is turning out to be a recurring theme in China. Reassembled at bus at 1040 and drove back to VCS. Attempted to swipe wireless from sun deck, but no networks whatever. Lunch at 1200.
Some wait departing from our mooring, but captain is awaiting word from the dam as to when to proceed to the locks. We moved into our lock just about on schedule, despite the constant complaining of one gentleman that they obviously didn't know how to operate ship locks (at least from his perspective). In an accent strictly New York Lower East Side (where everyone knows how to operate ship locks), he stated that waiting for the lock gates to open was like waiting for paint to dry; from my perspective, just like waiting for him to shut up!
Took some pix of the first of the 5 locks, then figured that the other 4 would be about the same. Went to sun deck and kibitzed for a bit at the Mah Jong game among Mary, Beverly, Polly, and Carol, I then went to the observation lounge to the Larry Lecture on the Chinese dynasties- good coverage from the Spring/Autumn - Warring States period to 1912. Very good presentation, which we have come to expect from Larry. After presentation, Mary & I returned to our cabin for some beer, then reading before dinner.
Dinner at 1900, I had the veal loin, which was very good, but the appetizer tonight was probably my favorite of the whole cruise so far- a skewer of chicken, pineapple, pepper, onion, with a great garnish of cilantro. The asparagus soup was quite good as well. We passed the final lock and emerged into the reservoir (Xiling Gorge) while still at dinner.
Tonight's entertainment was Elvis Night, so of course we went to our cabin, read, and went to bed. Some things do not acquire greater charm because they're done 7,000 miles from their cultural milieu.
10/30 - Friday - Three Lesser Gorges Excursion
Up at 0545, then up to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. This morning was a little different, because we are cruising the Xiling / Wu gorges, and there was narration. Went outside and took some pix with Beverly, Polly, John & Carol. Absolutely unique scenery.....what is below is flooded, but whatever people lived there before lived in a virtually vertical world.
Went down to breakfast about 0800, ate with Polly and some people from Scotland. I had some noodles with breakfast this morning, and if the fried chiles presented as a condiment didn't wake you up, no amount of coffee would. We are now awaiting docking for our transfer to a smaller craft and the tour of one of the lesser gorges.
Transferred to a smaller boat, about half the passengers of the VCS in each of two boats, then up into the Three lesser gorges, which are serial. Most spectacular scenery of the trip so far, took over 100 photos. Two large highway bridges being built at the outset, and cell phone towers linking deep into the gorges, as far as we went, at least. Despite the steep terrain, plantings are everywhere: sweet potatoes, tobacco, wheat, sesame, etc. Much trapping of fish on the river. Saw rhesus monkeys and hanging coffins, as well as fanciful rock formations and caves. Whole tour was about 3.5 hours, back to VCS around 1230, lunch at 1300, underway during lunch.
Proceeded down the main reservoir / gorges all afternoon, with Justin giving description of scenery at the main scenic junction "Huge Three Pools." Attended a third of Larry's fifth lecture on China Today, then left. Not his fault. Given this more politically charged topic, he became extremely circumlocutory, indicating he was using "prepared" notes, ones I suspect not from him. Also, there were two annoying persons who promptly set up behind me and started playing cribbage. So it was either pitch them into the river, or leave. I left.
I returned to the cabin and took a shower, then opened some beers. I can drink the best Chinese brew (that I have had), Tsingtao, without complaint. They have done an excellent job of aping the straw-colored, fizzy, slightly astringent lager that the United States produces so abundantly. In fact, I'd say it's as good as any I've had, but that's an low index to be using.
Alexey is going to be presenting the DVD of the cruise at 1810, but I'm not much interested- I've been on it. Dinner will be at 1900, and then some sort of "International Music" entertainment. I suspect it'll be reading and bed after dinner, though, which is just fine with me. I want some easy cruising and relaxation before we have to hit the road for Xi'an and Beijing in two days. The end of this tour will be very, very full.
Saturday 10/31 - Shibaozhai
Up at 0555, to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries. When it became light, it was obvious that it was raining. By breakfast at 0700, the rain was pretty steady. We decided to go on our tour, which consisted of a 20 minute walk through the town....mostly past vendors who had erected awnings out over the street, and shopkeepers who had done the same thing, peddling the usual bric-a-brac. Everything from "antique" mah jong sets to kitsch such as Red Guard caps. After walking to the embarkation point to the boat to the pagoda, we decided to give that part a miss, and walked back to the boat with Polly. We were pretty good & wet at the extremities by the time we returned, although the "one size fits all" (all Chinese, anyway) raincoats passed out by the VCS worked pretty well on the head and core of the body.
We immediately changed clothes and began a drying-out regimen, the small hair dryer in the room coming in particularly handy when used on my orthotics and shoes. Had some of the room tea, didn't particularly care for the taste. Scanned for some free computer networks in Shibao, none to be found.
Departed Shibao about noon for Fengdu, which we reached around 1700. In between did some reading, conversing, photography. At 1530 was a dumpling demo by the boat's sous chef. They were good, and don't look that complicated. I will make these after we return home. Didn't stay for the napkin folding demo, which I later regretted, when I learned it was performed by the charming Smile, one of our waitresses in the dining room.
Had some beers; dinner will be at 1900, as usual.
Sunday 11/1 - Fengdu
Up at 0555, to the observation lounge for coffee and pastries, watched the lights go out and the day emerge in Fengdu. Breakfast at 0700. As neither tour appeals to us today, we're going to stay on the boat, maybe venture ashore for some photos, and pack in preparation for disembarkation tomorrow.
Went back to room after breakfast, gathered reading matter & laptop, and up to sun deck to read, catch up journal, and reflect on our experiences.
Went off the boat on our own into Fengdu before 1000, walked around the city center for a little over an hour, and returned to the ship. Got stared at a lot, but the people were perfectly friendly. Interesting walk.
Tours returned a little after 1100, went to lunch at 1200, and underway soon after for Qongjing. Actually managed to crank out a few e-mails on the boat's computers, an unusual feat.
Went up to the disembarkation briefing at 1330. Briefing was at 1400....would have been straightforward except for the sorts of people who never get the word (i.e., they don't listen...as an ex-teacher, there's one in every class) and can never get their ducks in a row. Francis then took us aside for a group briefing. Pretty simple- we're outta here by 0800, to the Chongquing Zoo for the pandarama, then the plane. We'll take off at 1055, so we should be in Xi'an by 1100. Lunch there, then go check in to hotel. Dinner & Tang dynasty show at unspecified time.
We're pretty much packed...all we have to do is take care of the tips & a few odds and ends tonight, then have our bags outside our door before 0600.
I suspect there'll be little else but dinner & bed this evening.
....back to Part I
....back to Part II
....to Part IV
Friday, November 13, 2009
Nasty Water!
The Weather Channel, which is now showing movies and fast devolving into something incomprehensible, calls the current Nor'Easter an "Atlantic Assault." Interesting how so many things involving inanimate objects or forces must be couched in anthropomorphically violent verbiage. Perhaps we should emulate King Canute and simply order back the waves (which he reputedly did in an astute demonstration aimed at his fawning advisors). Or perhaps we should institutionalize the punishment of inanimate objects, in this case a clearly criminal bell in a Mexico City church. It would be as relevant as some other things we enshrine in our culture.....
A China Journal / Part II / Nanjing to Yueyang
10/24 - Saturday - Mt. Jiu Hua
Up a little before 0600, after our first good night's sleep since arrival. We went to the 5th deck observation salon for early coffee and pastries, then back to the cabin and dressed a bit before going to breakfast. As we would expect from Viking, the breakfast buffet was quite good. Ate well, and will do so throughout. After breakfast, I began this journal. Then joined Mary Margaret and some acquaintances (Beverly and Polly) on the 6th deck for some conversation and watching of the abundant river traffic. Just before 0900, went to 5th deck observation lounge for information / indoctrination, where this catch-up journal writing is taking place. The afternoon also featured a lecture on Buddhism by a scholar from Mt. Jiu Hua; actually more interesting than I anticipated. Now awaiting lunch in about a half-hour.
Lunch was up to the usual Viking standard- a salad bar really over the top, and entrees that could be served for dinner. And, of course, the usual problem with serving 280 people in one seating where buffet lines are concerned....a traffic jam.
We departed on schedule for the Buddhist mountain at Jiu Hua and its multitude of temples. A really rough ride to the mountains themselves, due to extensive road building, and then a series (supposedly "99") of turns and switchbacks to get up to the mountain, along a road altogether too narrow. It's impossible not to regard bus drivers here as an altogether more skilled breed than those in the U.S., given what they have to make the buses do. The hair-raising and yet strangely functional nature of Chinese driving becomes more apparent every day.
We visited two temples at Mt. Jiu Hua, and were given the opportunity (at RMB 100 per person, which we declined) of taking a funicular railway up to the peak, where still more temples exist. The temples contained both familiar and unfamiliar Buddhist imagery- I suppose some of the dragons and elephants might be more specifically Chinese than just Buddhist, but all are generally incorporated into the religion. After some free time, we made the descent and returned to the ship. I am already trying very hard to suppress my distaste for long bus rides.
Returned to the VCS at 1730, rested until Captain's reception at 1900. This was largely a formality with refreshments, except for the briefing for the next day- literally "chinatown,' a center of porcelain manufacturing. The prospect of a two hour bus ride each way is daunting.
Went to dinner at 1930, one of two Chinese dinners we will have aboard. The menu was uniformly excellent in all respects. There were several dishes on the spicy side, which is guaranteed to provoke comment and exclamation from some people, but I found it uniformly tasty and well done.
Back to the cabin after dinner, decided to go forward and read. We did little for a half-hour but watch the river and doze, and so returned to the cabin and bed.
10/25 - Sunday - Playing hooky from ceramics tour / walking ashore in Jingdezhen
Up at 0530 and showered, went to the 5th deck lounge for coffee and pastries. We made an executive decision at this time not to go on the tour of the ceramics factory. A two-hour bus ride each way was very intimidating, and we are told that this is a good spot to go walking ashore i Jingdezhen, another of those cities that our escort tosses off as "-a small city, only 2 or 3 million." We walked into the large street fronting the dock area, and walked about 1/2 mile to a large shopping complex, consisting of smaller shops, then leading into a two-story combination supermarket - dry goods store. Walked around, bought some beer, a bottle of Chinese "wine" (actually, a sorghum-based distilled clear beverage of about 78 proof), & a map of the People's Republic. Cost for these items was nearly 28 Yuan, or about $4. A very large and tall Westerner with beard is a universal object of fascination, as I can attest. I thought several girls running the checkouts were going to take me home for a lawn ornament.
Returned to the boat for lunch, then spent the afternoon on the observation deck talking with Beverly, and had a few beers. Beverly left for a massage appointment at 5, and was replaced by another gentleman with a colorful past.
At 1830 we attended a briefing on Wuhan, and had dinner at 1900. Went to a show of Chinese traditional costume and dancing at 2115 performed by the crew in fine style, then to bed.
10/26 - Monday - Wuhan / Hubei Province Museum
Up at 0600, and to early coffee and watch the arrival at Wuhan, capital of Hubei province. Had breakfast at 0700, and returned to the cabin to prepare for shore excursion. Took bus to Hubei Provincial Museum to see an archæological display of bells and other finds from 2500 year old tomb. We were told that even though Monday was "institutional buildings closed day," -rather like in Europe- that the museum would be opened especially for the Viking tour. The museum was great, also included a performance hall, where we were treated to a show replicating a musical performance of that earlier time. We then took a forty minute tour of the artifacts secured from the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng, a minor kingdom of the Warring States period 8th - 3rd CBC. This was all absolutely first-rate.
Returned to the boat for lunch, and I for a nap. Mary Margaret spent time with Beverly, then went for a foot massage at 1500. I attempted to use the ship's internet facilities, with no result. Secured ice and cooled some beer.
Mary & I attended the lecture on the Yangtze River at 1600; very good lecture. The implications of the water diversion projects in China over the next 50 years are staggering. The potential change for the country is vast, but also, I think, not certain. There exists immense potential for harm as well as good in it.
A Mandarin lesson at 1700. I attended, while Mary returned to the cabin for a nap. We skipped the briefing for tomorrow, and will instead attend the reception at 1830 for the "Viking Explorer Society." Got up to the reception, and drank quite a quantity of complimentary wine....not bad, considering what Viking normally charges for a glass. Dinner at 1900....nice menu, got to sit at a different table and talk to a completely new group of people. Close to 2100 by the time we returned to our cabin, so we turned in.
10/27 - Tuesday - Yueyang tower
Up at 0600, went to observation deck for early coffee and pastries, watch the landscape lighten up and see the new horizon of Yueyang, the port of Hunan province. Bargeloads of logs being brought in made it no surprise when we learned there is a large paper mill here. The barge traffic on the river makes everything look efficient......then guys start unloading the logs from the barges on their backs.....and the 21st century meets feudal China.
Down to breakfast at 0700, ate with the usual folks....some new types of smoked fish for breakfast, was told one was mackerel. Went to cabin before going to the bus for excursion to Yueyang pagoda.
Happily, bus ride was only 15 minutes along shore of Dongting Lake to reach the rather large park where the tower is situated. Had a good tour guide who is also the redundant tour director of the Viking Century Sky, taken out of service with Viking last year due to economic slump. Interesting tower tour and tea-drinking. Tea was accompanied by a girl playing a stringed instrument; all very nice....although the highly-touted local "silver needle" tea didn't do anything for either of us. Returned to boat by 1115. Lunch at 1200, very good. Afternoon to be structured by bridge tour for me at 1440, a Chinese culture lecture by Larry at 1600, and a foot massage at 1700.
The Chinese culture lecture, like all of tour director Larry's presentations, was very good. My foot massage was very relaxing, and left me with truly "happy feet." Dinner at 1900 was very good, as usual, and once again we chose a table with different folks. Also, Francis and Richard (escorts) sat with us for dinner. Back to cabin and reading and sleep.
....to be continued in Part III
....return to Part I
....go to Part IV
Up a little before 0600, after our first good night's sleep since arrival. We went to the 5th deck observation salon for early coffee and pastries, then back to the cabin and dressed a bit before going to breakfast. As we would expect from Viking, the breakfast buffet was quite good. Ate well, and will do so throughout. After breakfast, I began this journal. Then joined Mary Margaret and some acquaintances (Beverly and Polly) on the 6th deck for some conversation and watching of the abundant river traffic. Just before 0900, went to 5th deck observation lounge for information / indoctrination, where this catch-up journal writing is taking place. The afternoon also featured a lecture on Buddhism by a scholar from Mt. Jiu Hua; actually more interesting than I anticipated. Now awaiting lunch in about a half-hour.
Lunch was up to the usual Viking standard- a salad bar really over the top, and entrees that could be served for dinner. And, of course, the usual problem with serving 280 people in one seating where buffet lines are concerned....a traffic jam.
We departed on schedule for the Buddhist mountain at Jiu Hua and its multitude of temples. A really rough ride to the mountains themselves, due to extensive road building, and then a series (supposedly "99") of turns and switchbacks to get up to the mountain, along a road altogether too narrow. It's impossible not to regard bus drivers here as an altogether more skilled breed than those in the U.S., given what they have to make the buses do. The hair-raising and yet strangely functional nature of Chinese driving becomes more apparent every day.
We visited two temples at Mt. Jiu Hua, and were given the opportunity (at RMB 100 per person, which we declined) of taking a funicular railway up to the peak, where still more temples exist. The temples contained both familiar and unfamiliar Buddhist imagery- I suppose some of the dragons and elephants might be more specifically Chinese than just Buddhist, but all are generally incorporated into the religion. After some free time, we made the descent and returned to the ship. I am already trying very hard to suppress my distaste for long bus rides.
Returned to the VCS at 1730, rested until Captain's reception at 1900. This was largely a formality with refreshments, except for the briefing for the next day- literally "chinatown,' a center of porcelain manufacturing. The prospect of a two hour bus ride each way is daunting.
Went to dinner at 1930, one of two Chinese dinners we will have aboard. The menu was uniformly excellent in all respects. There were several dishes on the spicy side, which is guaranteed to provoke comment and exclamation from some people, but I found it uniformly tasty and well done.
Back to the cabin after dinner, decided to go forward and read. We did little for a half-hour but watch the river and doze, and so returned to the cabin and bed.
10/25 - Sunday - Playing hooky from ceramics tour / walking ashore in Jingdezhen
Up at 0530 and showered, went to the 5th deck lounge for coffee and pastries. We made an executive decision at this time not to go on the tour of the ceramics factory. A two-hour bus ride each way was very intimidating, and we are told that this is a good spot to go walking ashore i Jingdezhen, another of those cities that our escort tosses off as "-a small city, only 2 or 3 million." We walked into the large street fronting the dock area, and walked about 1/2 mile to a large shopping complex, consisting of smaller shops, then leading into a two-story combination supermarket - dry goods store. Walked around, bought some beer, a bottle of Chinese "wine" (actually, a sorghum-based distilled clear beverage of about 78 proof), & a map of the People's Republic. Cost for these items was nearly 28 Yuan, or about $4. A very large and tall Westerner with beard is a universal object of fascination, as I can attest. I thought several girls running the checkouts were going to take me home for a lawn ornament.
Returned to the boat for lunch, then spent the afternoon on the observation deck talking with Beverly, and had a few beers. Beverly left for a massage appointment at 5, and was replaced by another gentleman with a colorful past.
At 1830 we attended a briefing on Wuhan, and had dinner at 1900. Went to a show of Chinese traditional costume and dancing at 2115 performed by the crew in fine style, then to bed.
10/26 - Monday - Wuhan / Hubei Province Museum
Up at 0600, and to early coffee and watch the arrival at Wuhan, capital of Hubei province. Had breakfast at 0700, and returned to the cabin to prepare for shore excursion. Took bus to Hubei Provincial Museum to see an archæological display of bells and other finds from 2500 year old tomb. We were told that even though Monday was "institutional buildings closed day," -rather like in Europe- that the museum would be opened especially for the Viking tour. The museum was great, also included a performance hall, where we were treated to a show replicating a musical performance of that earlier time. We then took a forty minute tour of the artifacts secured from the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng, a minor kingdom of the Warring States period 8th - 3rd CBC. This was all absolutely first-rate.
Returned to the boat for lunch, and I for a nap. Mary Margaret spent time with Beverly, then went for a foot massage at 1500. I attempted to use the ship's internet facilities, with no result. Secured ice and cooled some beer.
Mary & I attended the lecture on the Yangtze River at 1600; very good lecture. The implications of the water diversion projects in China over the next 50 years are staggering. The potential change for the country is vast, but also, I think, not certain. There exists immense potential for harm as well as good in it.
A Mandarin lesson at 1700. I attended, while Mary returned to the cabin for a nap. We skipped the briefing for tomorrow, and will instead attend the reception at 1830 for the "Viking Explorer Society." Got up to the reception, and drank quite a quantity of complimentary wine....not bad, considering what Viking normally charges for a glass. Dinner at 1900....nice menu, got to sit at a different table and talk to a completely new group of people. Close to 2100 by the time we returned to our cabin, so we turned in.
10/27 - Tuesday - Yueyang tower
Up at 0600, went to observation deck for early coffee and pastries, watch the landscape lighten up and see the new horizon of Yueyang, the port of Hunan province. Bargeloads of logs being brought in made it no surprise when we learned there is a large paper mill here. The barge traffic on the river makes everything look efficient......then guys start unloading the logs from the barges on their backs.....and the 21st century meets feudal China.
Down to breakfast at 0700, ate with the usual folks....some new types of smoked fish for breakfast, was told one was mackerel. Went to cabin before going to the bus for excursion to Yueyang pagoda.
Happily, bus ride was only 15 minutes along shore of Dongting Lake to reach the rather large park where the tower is situated. Had a good tour guide who is also the redundant tour director of the Viking Century Sky, taken out of service with Viking last year due to economic slump. Interesting tower tour and tea-drinking. Tea was accompanied by a girl playing a stringed instrument; all very nice....although the highly-touted local "silver needle" tea didn't do anything for either of us. Returned to boat by 1115. Lunch at 1200, very good. Afternoon to be structured by bridge tour for me at 1440, a Chinese culture lecture by Larry at 1600, and a foot massage at 1700.
The Chinese culture lecture, like all of tour director Larry's presentations, was very good. My foot massage was very relaxing, and left me with truly "happy feet." Dinner at 1900 was very good, as usual, and once again we chose a table with different folks. Also, Francis and Richard (escorts) sat with us for dinner. Back to cabin and reading and sleep.
....to be continued in Part III
....return to Part I
....go to Part IV
Disconnect
I go on vacation for 3 weeks to China; I come home to girls who can't stop sneezing. Give me one reason why I should spend any of my time watching or reading the news. One.
All The Wrong Reasons
We were told by the President or COOTWH (Current Occupant Of The White House) that Iraq was the "wrong" war, and that Afghanistan was the "right" war. Not to put too fine a point on it, it's now obvious that he wants to bail. The putative reason for all this is a "leaked memo" from Our Man In Kabul that smells increasingly fishy. The real reason, the eternal reason: the polls are slipping, and it's time to head for the cellar, the first obsession of the politician.
Call a meeting, then reject all the recommendations of your highly paid advisors. Since we live in advanced times, they were graciously allowed to keep their heads, although apparently their advice is worthless. Now what?
Since the Memo From Kabul was indeterminate, he must now turn increasingly from legitimate advisors (i.e., those who will give him honest alternatives and the costs of each) to the Low Men in Yellow Coats. Afghanistan is not going away, certainly not because Mr. Obama doesn't like his alternatives. Afghanistan appears to be a test of statesmanship. From my perspective, there's little possibility that Mr. Obama will receive a passing grade.
Call a meeting, then reject all the recommendations of your highly paid advisors. Since we live in advanced times, they were graciously allowed to keep their heads, although apparently their advice is worthless. Now what?
Since the Memo From Kabul was indeterminate, he must now turn increasingly from legitimate advisors (i.e., those who will give him honest alternatives and the costs of each) to the Low Men in Yellow Coats. Afghanistan is not going away, certainly not because Mr. Obama doesn't like his alternatives. Afghanistan appears to be a test of statesmanship. From my perspective, there's little possibility that Mr. Obama will receive a passing grade.
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
A China Journal / Part I / Shanghai to Nanjing
10/20 - Monday Home - Chicago - Shanghai
We checked our packing, did the final departure checks to the house, and drove to Quality Inn O'Hare in company of our grandson Theodore, who had been with us for the previous four days, and reunited him with his Daddy. I think both were extremely happy to see the other. The hotel was very decent and a good Park, Sleep &Fly bargain, so it's a good candidate for a repeat performance. We ate dinner at a Spaghetti Factory across the street, and actually found a crosswalk close by we could use and not become road kill.
Up around 0500 without much sleep after 0300. Showered and checked out, had the QI breakfast, which was predictable for a hotel with a total bill under $100 (including the extra parking days). We had reserved the shuttle to ORD at 0700, which left on time, and by the time we picked up two more people at a Super 8, it was full.
Check-in and security at ORD went very smoothly, and we camped near our gate waiting for plane time. Plane boarded on time, and was obviously going to be very full. Had the usual display of behavior from people who believe they're not going to get a seat- boarding pass with seat number to the contrary notwithstanding. Took off right on time at 1034.
United did a better job on this flight than our last one, but the flight duration itself made it something very like torture.....and we had purchased the "Economy Plus" seats at $560 for both of us, round trip. Not to denigrate the upgraded seats, because it was a big improvement over the "sarcophagus" model in regular Economy. I have concluded that the only improvement to airline seating I'm interested in is to be containerized in baggage with sedation, IV, O2 & catheter lines.....just wake me when it's over.
10/21 - Wednesday - Chicago O'Hare (ORD) - Shanghai Pudong (PVG) / (Tuesday lost due to passage IDL; will "get it back" on return)
Landed at PVG (Shanghai Pudong) earlier than predicted, somewhere a little under 14 hours. Going through Chinese immigration, quarantine & customs was no problem. They had an infrared scanner operating just after emerging into the immigration area so the rumors about H1N1 flu screening evidently are credible. Customs was not in the least concerned about what might be in our bags. The few officials that were there were more interested in talking to one another than in anything we might be carrying. I suspect big groups of tourists coming through invite little attention.
The Viking River Cruises people were right in the area outside customs, waving signs and flags, so no one would miss them. Our luggage was tagged and we were given our room keys, the luggage to appear and disappear magically through the next three weeks. This is a very nice feature of VRC. There was about an hour of waiting for everyone to assemble and for a wayward bus to arrive, then another hour for the drive from Pudong into the Westin Bund Center, where we were moved into our room.
The Westin was very nice indeed, as we were given what amounted to a suite, with a very large living / bed area, and another extremely elaborate bath area, with separate large tub and shower. The lighting system for the suite would do justice to a stage performance. My biggest criticism of the Westin was that a 26-story tower needs more elevators. They were quite fast & efficient, but just not enough capacity for large numbers on group tour schedules. We ate in the Stage Cafe at the Westin the first evening, being told that the hygeine at restaurants outside couldn't be guaranteed.
10/22 - Thursday - Shanghai
Up way too early; again, not enough good sleep for either one of us. Showered and went down to a very impressive breakfast spread, which was our first provided meal. All manner of fruits, meats, cheeses, breads, omelet stations, etc. There was also a Chinese breakfast buffet. We departed at 0800 for our full day of touring Shanghai....a FULL day, without nearly enough hours to do everything attempted. We visited a silk carpet factory, and a famous private garden. Lunch was quite good; the lunches in Chinese restaurants are better than provided lunches on our European Viking tour. We went back to the hotel, being given a whole 1.5 hours to rest, then on to dinner and then the Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe. The dinner was excellent, and the acrobats were extremely accomplished. Much food for thought in people who begin a full-time career at age 7, are finished at twenty, and go.....where?
10/23 - Friday Shanghai - Suzhou- Nanjing - Embarkation
Up....again, too early and without enough sleep. Something's got to change; maybe when we get to the boat. Showered & felt better, but this day will not wear well. Put bags in hall with ribbons intended to bring them to our cabin on the Viking Sun. Went down again for a last shot at the Westin's bountiful buffet. I decided to eat a variety of the Chinese breakfast buffet, and decided that noodles were quite acceptable for breakfast. Also had an omelet and other Western items.
Boarded the bus at 0800 and rode 1:40 to Suzhou (old Roman phonetic Soochow), which is the focus of the silk cultivation and manufacturing industry. Our guide, Sharon, spoke English with the more characteristic "singsong" Chinese accent that we recognize as Americans, because of the preponderance of Cantonese speakers in the U.S. The facilities for showing the silk from the beginnings as moth, egg, and worm, to shops where one could purchase the finished goods, was quite impressive. Bought some silk hangings as gifts.
We then visited the "Master of Fishermen's Nets" garden in Su Zhou, which is quite famous, having had part of the garden reproduced at the Metropolitan in New York. While Chinese gardens may be something of an acquired taste, I think it's a taste that could grow on me.
Lunch was again very good, at a hotel with an unlikely name- The "Glamor".....names often don't -quite- translate in China. This was the first restaurant where the one provided drink was by the glass, rather than the original container for the drink. This appears to be quite common, but the underlying reason was not immediately apparent. I have concluded that it's because some restaurants desire to save money by purchasing the beverages in the larger containers, and so ration the drink by the container into which the beverage is poured.
After lunch, we settled into the bus for our 3-hour ride to Nanjing where the Century Sun was moored. We stopped on the expressway about halfway for a pit stop, with the usual fuss among the womenfolk over the squat toilets. The more pragmatic concluded that if one wants to go badly enough, squat one will. We visited a rather whimsical "supermarket" which nonetheless had ice cream and beer. I purchased several half-liter bottles of the finest brew of the "Qongjing Beer Group, Ltd." for a few Yuan.
Entering Nanjing (or "Southern Capital," as Beijing is "North"), we once again saw that China has more than met the Western standard for hideous traffic. Traffic rules appear to be, as our guide Francis observed, more in the nature of "suggestions." I would describe the traffic in the worst parts of Shanghai & Nanjing as a semi-professional blood sport. Our bus driver demonstrated the skill of a professional race driver and the panache of a bullfighter....he was given a nice gratuity.
We boarded the VCS a bit after 1700, apparently the first group to arrive. We went directly to our cabin, where our luggage had already been placed in the passageway outside our cabin. Before dinner at 1930, I secured a bucket of ice from one of the unbearably cute cabin stewards who are constantly darting about, and iced down a beer, which Mary Margaret and I shared.
Dinner at 1930 was quite good. I had a carpaccio of black forest ham and melon for appetizer, a cauliflower soup, and Mary Margaret stole my bread. The entree was a stuffed chicken breast with onion sauce, and cheesecake for dessert. As with all alcoholic beverages on Viking Ships, the extremely high prices (small draft beer $4.50 US, up to $10 for some mixed drinks) more or less preclude drinks with meals on a regular basis. It's not so much that we can't buy them, we just won't at those prices. The acoustics of the dining room are simply impossible. I was unable to hear anyone but Mary on my left and the gentleman on my right. The low overhead and lack of any systematic sound attenuation is a serious defect, and will figure in my evaluation.
After an attempt to sit up after dinner in the small forward observation cabin on Deck 4 and watch the river traffic began to quickly descend into slumber, we returned to the cabin and did just that.
.....to be continued in Part II
.....go to Part III
.....go to Part IV
We checked our packing, did the final departure checks to the house, and drove to Quality Inn O'Hare in company of our grandson Theodore, who had been with us for the previous four days, and reunited him with his Daddy. I think both were extremely happy to see the other. The hotel was very decent and a good Park, Sleep &Fly bargain, so it's a good candidate for a repeat performance. We ate dinner at a Spaghetti Factory across the street, and actually found a crosswalk close by we could use and not become road kill.
Up around 0500 without much sleep after 0300. Showered and checked out, had the QI breakfast, which was predictable for a hotel with a total bill under $100 (including the extra parking days). We had reserved the shuttle to ORD at 0700, which left on time, and by the time we picked up two more people at a Super 8, it was full.
Check-in and security at ORD went very smoothly, and we camped near our gate waiting for plane time. Plane boarded on time, and was obviously going to be very full. Had the usual display of behavior from people who believe they're not going to get a seat- boarding pass with seat number to the contrary notwithstanding. Took off right on time at 1034.
United did a better job on this flight than our last one, but the flight duration itself made it something very like torture.....and we had purchased the "Economy Plus" seats at $560 for both of us, round trip. Not to denigrate the upgraded seats, because it was a big improvement over the "sarcophagus" model in regular Economy. I have concluded that the only improvement to airline seating I'm interested in is to be containerized in baggage with sedation, IV, O2 & catheter lines.....just wake me when it's over.
10/21 - Wednesday - Chicago O'Hare (ORD) - Shanghai Pudong (PVG) / (Tuesday lost due to passage IDL; will "get it back" on return)
Landed at PVG (Shanghai Pudong) earlier than predicted, somewhere a little under 14 hours. Going through Chinese immigration, quarantine & customs was no problem. They had an infrared scanner operating just after emerging into the immigration area so the rumors about H1N1 flu screening evidently are credible. Customs was not in the least concerned about what might be in our bags. The few officials that were there were more interested in talking to one another than in anything we might be carrying. I suspect big groups of tourists coming through invite little attention.
The Viking River Cruises people were right in the area outside customs, waving signs and flags, so no one would miss them. Our luggage was tagged and we were given our room keys, the luggage to appear and disappear magically through the next three weeks. This is a very nice feature of VRC. There was about an hour of waiting for everyone to assemble and for a wayward bus to arrive, then another hour for the drive from Pudong into the Westin Bund Center, where we were moved into our room.
The Westin was very nice indeed, as we were given what amounted to a suite, with a very large living / bed area, and another extremely elaborate bath area, with separate large tub and shower. The lighting system for the suite would do justice to a stage performance. My biggest criticism of the Westin was that a 26-story tower needs more elevators. They were quite fast & efficient, but just not enough capacity for large numbers on group tour schedules. We ate in the Stage Cafe at the Westin the first evening, being told that the hygeine at restaurants outside couldn't be guaranteed.
10/22 - Thursday - Shanghai
Up way too early; again, not enough good sleep for either one of us. Showered and went down to a very impressive breakfast spread, which was our first provided meal. All manner of fruits, meats, cheeses, breads, omelet stations, etc. There was also a Chinese breakfast buffet. We departed at 0800 for our full day of touring Shanghai....a FULL day, without nearly enough hours to do everything attempted. We visited a silk carpet factory, and a famous private garden. Lunch was quite good; the lunches in Chinese restaurants are better than provided lunches on our European Viking tour. We went back to the hotel, being given a whole 1.5 hours to rest, then on to dinner and then the Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe. The dinner was excellent, and the acrobats were extremely accomplished. Much food for thought in people who begin a full-time career at age 7, are finished at twenty, and go.....where?
10/23 - Friday Shanghai - Suzhou- Nanjing - Embarkation
Up....again, too early and without enough sleep. Something's got to change; maybe when we get to the boat. Showered & felt better, but this day will not wear well. Put bags in hall with ribbons intended to bring them to our cabin on the Viking Sun. Went down again for a last shot at the Westin's bountiful buffet. I decided to eat a variety of the Chinese breakfast buffet, and decided that noodles were quite acceptable for breakfast. Also had an omelet and other Western items.
Boarded the bus at 0800 and rode 1:40 to Suzhou (old Roman phonetic Soochow), which is the focus of the silk cultivation and manufacturing industry. Our guide, Sharon, spoke English with the more characteristic "singsong" Chinese accent that we recognize as Americans, because of the preponderance of Cantonese speakers in the U.S. The facilities for showing the silk from the beginnings as moth, egg, and worm, to shops where one could purchase the finished goods, was quite impressive. Bought some silk hangings as gifts.
We then visited the "Master of Fishermen's Nets" garden in Su Zhou, which is quite famous, having had part of the garden reproduced at the Metropolitan in New York. While Chinese gardens may be something of an acquired taste, I think it's a taste that could grow on me.
Lunch was again very good, at a hotel with an unlikely name- The "Glamor".....names often don't -quite- translate in China. This was the first restaurant where the one provided drink was by the glass, rather than the original container for the drink. This appears to be quite common, but the underlying reason was not immediately apparent. I have concluded that it's because some restaurants desire to save money by purchasing the beverages in the larger containers, and so ration the drink by the container into which the beverage is poured.
After lunch, we settled into the bus for our 3-hour ride to Nanjing where the Century Sun was moored. We stopped on the expressway about halfway for a pit stop, with the usual fuss among the womenfolk over the squat toilets. The more pragmatic concluded that if one wants to go badly enough, squat one will. We visited a rather whimsical "supermarket" which nonetheless had ice cream and beer. I purchased several half-liter bottles of the finest brew of the "Qongjing Beer Group, Ltd." for a few Yuan.
Entering Nanjing (or "Southern Capital," as Beijing is "North"), we once again saw that China has more than met the Western standard for hideous traffic. Traffic rules appear to be, as our guide Francis observed, more in the nature of "suggestions." I would describe the traffic in the worst parts of Shanghai & Nanjing as a semi-professional blood sport. Our bus driver demonstrated the skill of a professional race driver and the panache of a bullfighter....he was given a nice gratuity.
We boarded the VCS a bit after 1700, apparently the first group to arrive. We went directly to our cabin, where our luggage had already been placed in the passageway outside our cabin. Before dinner at 1930, I secured a bucket of ice from one of the unbearably cute cabin stewards who are constantly darting about, and iced down a beer, which Mary Margaret and I shared.
Dinner at 1930 was quite good. I had a carpaccio of black forest ham and melon for appetizer, a cauliflower soup, and Mary Margaret stole my bread. The entree was a stuffed chicken breast with onion sauce, and cheesecake for dessert. As with all alcoholic beverages on Viking Ships, the extremely high prices (small draft beer $4.50 US, up to $10 for some mixed drinks) more or less preclude drinks with meals on a regular basis. It's not so much that we can't buy them, we just won't at those prices. The acoustics of the dining room are simply impossible. I was unable to hear anyone but Mary on my left and the gentleman on my right. The low overhead and lack of any systematic sound attenuation is a serious defect, and will figure in my evaluation.
After an attempt to sit up after dinner in the small forward observation cabin on Deck 4 and watch the river traffic began to quickly descend into slumber, we returned to the cabin and did just that.
.....to be continued in Part II
.....go to Part III
.....go to Part IV
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